Adversity a century and a half ago spurred a grower to innovate, reshaping the global landscape for this fruit. California Raisin Birth of the The
by JANE RHODES
T he global agricultural industry is no stranger to adverse weather and climatic conditions. Flooding, freezes, heatwaves and droughts commonly wreak havoc on crops, with the farmers often powerless to prevent the damage. Events like this can also lead to the creation of new industries by necessitating innovation from challenged growers. Such was the case with the California grape industry in the 1870s, when persistent dry weather caused a drought which led to raisins being commercialized from The Golden State for the first time. Raisins had, of course, been enjoyed around the world long before then. First recorded around 2000 BC, raisins were found dried on vines. Ancient art in Mediterranean Europe showcases them as food and decoration. The Phoenicians and Armenians initiated grape cultivation, setting up vineyards in Spain, Greece, and what’s now Turkey, Iran and Iraq by 900 BC. These areas, ideal for rai- sins, were close to Greece and Rome, the primary markets. Malaga and Valencia specialized in Muscat raisins, while Corinth birthed seedless currants. Raisins, traded with Greeks and Romans, rose in prominence, being used as prizes, trade items and rem- edies. Important figures such as Emperor Augustus and Hannibal embraced them. Their reach was limited to the Mediterranean due to shipping challenges. By the 11th century, returning knights introduced raisins to wider Europe. Improved shipping led to their
spread, becoming culinary staples in England by the 14th century. As viticulture reached France and Germany, raisin-infused cuisine flourished, especially in Spain, a pivotal center. In the 18th century, Spain’s Queen Isabella dispatched missionaries to Mexico, intending not just to spread religion but also the study and growing of grapes. As these missionaries journeyed, they planted the seeds for what would become California’s renowned grape industry, using the fruit for both sacramental wines and raisins. A Grape Visionary Amidst the burgeoning grape culture in the mid-19th century, 1870 marked a significant chapter. William Thompson, a visionary vineyard owner who was born in England and later emigrated to the United States, import-
68 Vision Magazine
October/November 2023
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